Big Trouble in Little Japan

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Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Australian Spring

I think for the first time this year I feel confident saying that it is really spring. Sure, the cherry blossoms were blooming a few weeks ago, but only in the past week or so has it been warm with any consistency. It's made the all-important leap from "cold with occasional warm days" to "warm with occasional cool days." All the more important in apartments and workplaces with no central heating (or air conditioning, which will likely be an issue in not long at all).

I haven't written in about two weeks, gomen. For a while, I really didn't have much to report really. I had a very boring week at school, and my actual work load is only beginning this week. My supervisor, after initially being reluctant to work out an unpaid leave deal for the summer, came up to me again and said he would see what he can do. Of course that was a few weeks ago and he has not responded since, despite my occasional nosiness. However after my brush with going to work during this past spring break, I've decided whether I am granted leave or not that I CAN'T work through another school vacation. I am expected to come into school everyday, even when there are no classes, and there is absolutely no work for me to do. My Japanese is no where near adequate enough to perform some basic life matters, much less school meetings and bureaucratic matters. So I come late, study Japanese, goof off (I was told what a good little doodler I was TWICE during this time), and leave a little early. A few days of this is fine as I can gather my head and a few lesson plans and whattnot, but more than that is mind-numbing and I think I'm too young to waste my days behind a desk in some dusty office with fluorescent lights and a heavily censored internet connection.
This could mean a few different things. If I were to go home this summer for as long as I'd like (about a month), and given no leave, I'd start a new term with close to zero vacation days. I don't think that's a viable option. I could just TELL them what I'm doing, and see what happens (getting fired is probably just as likely as getting no reaction and being silently thought of as a pain in the ass). OR I could tell them that this year will be my last with JET (my current program), and good luck and thanks for all the fish. A part of me still wants to spend at least a little bit longer in Japan, so I could bring back things like a broader knowledge of Japanese, and have time to line something up back home. In this case, I could go wherever. There are a lot of English teaching jobs in Japan, and they are particularly easy to get when you already live in Japan with a Visa and have at least some clue as to how to get around. As far as pocketing cash goes, my current program may be best, but I'd rather not spend these days contemplating job security. This is a crazy place and I've still got more to learn about it. In the meantime I have to keep an eye on my own life as well, and make sure I'm actually doing what I want to be doing.
But that's not always an easy thing to figure out. Friends and family are very much appreciated for their support, whatever crazy thing I decide to do next. Even if I don't give any very easy explanations. Or even if they have to give me more money :)

But enough alone in my apartment rambling. I just spent some time with another of Amber's Aussie buddies, a (someday) rockstar from Melbourne named Daniel. Together, we took Tokyo for what it was worth.
These "free hugs" guys are all over Japanese cities lately, and perhaps other places as well? Daniel says the trend started in Australia. But all Australians think every trend secretly started in Australia.

This was the most reluctant hug I've ever received. She did not act like she wanted to touch me, and maybe you can see from the picture that she barely did. Japanese people aren't very touchy-feely, I realize that, but she was holding a FREE HUGS sign. And I know I'm a foreigner, but not a very intimidating one, and if you stand at that spot in Shinjuku, Tokyo for just a few minutes you'll see plenty of really weird people, Japanese and gaijin a like. I left my "free hug" feeling like I just molested someone who didn't expect it at all. Maybe if I were Japanese I would've known a "free hugs" sign is meant to be admired, rather than tested.
All that said, this guy seemed better. But still not really that into it.
Here's a guy outside of yoyogi park doing a little dance. His little pamphlet said something about life's absurdity and downright stupidity, just look at him. But despite the seemingly meaningless and dumb aspects of life on this planet, it can be fun, and even beautiful.
Here are some of the famous rockabillies of Yoyogi park. They're a little old, and can't dance very well. But well, they give it their all.
I'm not sure if some of the pictures I've put on this blog have given you this impression or not, but Japanese people, and Tokyoites in particular, can be ridiculous. This is a totally absurd motorcycle and rider in Shibuya.
A totally ridiculous building in Shibuya. Some weird fusion of HR Geiger and Gaudi, with a touch of faceless modernism. And because this is Japan, the first floor or two (whole building?) is a Disney Store, and the cheesy plastic castle adorns the entranceway.

Amber's friends are having a big Aussie gathering this weekend, so I may get to hear more funny talk than I've ever heard before, which I am really looking forward to. I hope they know there's no bbq or beach though...
I'll be sure to post pictures of their hilarious reaction.
Also, I now have a flickr account. All I have up there for now is pictures from Thailand, but I will intermittently update. http://www.flickr.com/photos/eilmo1
I'll let you know.

Enjoy
Aaron

Tuesday, April 10, 2007

My New School

I'm biking to the same place I have been for the last 7-8 months, but it has a very different feel to it now. In Japan, for whatever reason, local boards of education transfer teachers from one school to another all the time. In fact a teacher is not allowed to work for more than 8 years in any one place in my district. I'm not sure how many of my teachers moved on, but I think it's around 10-12. With a staff of 41 (or so), this can have a pretty big impact on the general feeling of the workplace. And as hard as it is for me to believe, this is the case every single year at the end of March/beginning of April, when the Japanese school year ends and begins again. In one sense, this could be a good thing for me. A new start and maybe some new friends.
But on the other hand I was only starting to form the vaguest hints of bonds with some of the other teachers. My old nurse was an attractive older woman who loved to practice her funny English with me, and took a real interest in my well-being for whatever reason. I had my flu-shot thanks to her, have a map to an English speaking doctor, a list of reccomended allergy meds, and the memory of the times she took me to watch her son perform his championship karate. Besides being really nice, she was actually an incredibly useful person to have around, and now she's at another school and I mistook her replacement for a visiting high school student.
Affecting me on probably an even bigger level is that Saito Makie, my desk neighbor and real friend at the school has also left. Sure she was totally crazy, but her English was pretty solid and she talked to me like a real person and friend. Plus she was a 20-some year old cute Japanese girl, and that's not so bad by itself. But now next to me is a 40 some year old woman who has been a housewife since finishing college and this assistant teaching job is her first one. I have very little work experience myself, but unbelievably, I have more than the teacher now sitting next to me. She of course seems nice and polite, but is also incredibly nervous, which I hope explains her near inability to communicate in English. Regardless, together we will of course gambarimashou! (do our best)
Also, apparently once or twice a month I will visit an elementary school and get harrassed by hundreds of small screaming and dirty children. The government really does want their people to learn English, and so is pushing an earlier start to language education. As a result many if not most ALTs have some work at an elementary school. Of course tossing 100 8 year olds into a gym and playing chaotic games involving the words "go" and "three" will propel them into future international business correspondants.
Perhaps it was the warm presence of Jacob, or the beautiful sand of Thailand, but Japan seems a bit more dreary and concrete as I bike around. BUT the country is entering what many say is its most beautiful season: sakura, or cherry blossom season. The temperature is FINALLY rising and the flowers are in bloom. kirei naa! (so pretty!) Some funny talking compatriots are also helping me through...
Also it's time to start planning the next trip, which is of course... America! The vague estimate now stands at mid July to mid August, which is probably about as inconvenient as possible for my family, but there may be little i can do about that. Gomen!
I'll leave you with some pretty hanami (flower viewing) at Ueno park in Tokyo. Happy end of Passover to all those who know what that means.


look, weiner dogs and sakura! the beauties of ueno park.

Wednesday, April 04, 2007

white people vs. the sun

I think Lara and Amber came to a conclusion that my body is somewhere between squishy, twiggy, and hairy. Regardless, none of the guys at that club could be described using any of those adjectives...
But anyway, on to part two. After our night on the town we said goodbye to Lara, who alas had to return home. But I'll probably be able to see her in not long at all since she's making her way back to the U.S.. No Indian can resist it's shiny shores I think. Anyway, we took a budget plane down to Krabi, on the Southwest coast and took a taxi to a nearby slightly overcrowded beach where we spent the night. The beach wasn't fantastic, but it was still a nice view watching the sunset as a group of Thai teenagers played soccer on the sand. Relatively early the following morning we boarded a boat for Ko Phi Phi, a pretty popular destination in the area.
Here's a view from our boat ride. We ended up riding many of those long boats pictured here, but this time we were riding a more normal modern looking one.
Upon touching down we made our way to a nearby beachfront and found our 5 star lodging:
Amber may look at peace, but really she's grossed out by all the lizards and dirt that keeps our little bungalow together. It was fine for the night anyway, no problems. Plus I had never slept under a mosquito net before, and the thought of all those lizards eating all those malaria-filled bugs was a bit comforting. On our little island, we did all those things foreigners do on tropical islands: sleep, swim, snorkel, get really sunburnt, eat, drink, and so on. My favorite moments were on this little beach about a 15 minute walk away.

Beautiful, ne.
The next day we decided that our ALT salaries may not really be all that impressive, but its certainly enough to afford something without so many lizards and with a bit of running water. Of course left to my own devices I'd probably be on the beach with a coconut for a pillow... Oh the things I do for my friends.
Anyway shortly after checking in we played in our high class bungalow resort's little swimming pool and had a splash fight with two small Swedish children. Amber asked the little kid "Where are you from?" and in the little accent answered promptly "Sweden!" As adorable as that was, I think a little piece of our English teaching hearts sank. In all of our minds I know we instantly imagined the blank looks on our students faces if we were to ask them that same question. It's still a bit of a mystery to me as to how a 7 year old Swedish boy can seemingly have a greater understanding of the English language than the 13-15 year olds we teach everyday.
A hard fought splash battle with the little blond Scandinavians. The fight was cut short when another Swedish family came into the pool, and the mother serenaded her little daughter with the song "Ghetto Superstar."

You may have picked up on one theme of this trip so far: Swedish people. As far as I could tell, the islands we hopped around were practically little pieces of Sweden, only warm and tropical instead of cold and dark. I was brought back to my days in Denmark, and still think that for some reason the Swedes are warmer than the Danes. My Danish friend even slightly confirmed this observation, but added that it's only because Swedes are dumb. Anyway, the number of tall beautiful people wandering the beaches didn't really detract from their beauty, so I was happy to share with our blond friends.

Later that day we hired a longboat for a few hours and had a guy steer us around a nearby island for a bit where we occasionally jumped out and swam around and lied on a nice beach.
"crikey!"
Shane is wearing a t shirt while swimming, and no he's not the shy fat kid at a pool party. We all had to be a lot more careful after the first day in the sun, which left us a little lobstery.
Our mighty vessel.
I look a little sea sick in this one, but I think I was fine... It was a nice sunset. Another sweet note to this little outing was that while I was wading around in the water, I stumbled across a 1000Baht note buried in the sand (about 36 USD). This was the exact price we agreed on for the boat guy, making our trip free. huzzah! Too bad my travel companions were quick to point out how quickly their Jewish friend was able to find money buried in the sand. But they were just lucky I was stuck on a beach when I found that money, or else I never would have let those gentiles have it, and it would have safely gone to the hands of a nice Jewish stock broker in New York City who would've wisely invested it. But the sand and sun were clouding my thoughts, so I just went ahead and shared my prize with the goyem.

Here I am at the end of the trip, a little fuzzier and 50 pounds heavier. Guess that Thai food didn't go through me as much as I thought it would.

One last day was spent at my favorite little palm tree beach, before making our way back to the mainland. We made a brief stop at an island along the way, which I thought would be worth it based on the description in our guidebook. It was actually way more built up and overpriced than the one we had just come from, but still quite pretty. After an overpriced meal (by far the most expensive dinner we had in Thailand, with prices approaching 8 dollars an entree).
One last day was spent in Bangkok before getting on our plane which was ridiculously scheduled to take off at 12:30am. We did some market shopping and wandering around. The heat made that rather tough though, and I think the midday temperature may have exceeded 100 degree Fahrenheit.

So in conclusion, my only regret in Thailand is that we didn't have enough time. I would've loved to see a few more islands as well as spend a bit more time in Bangkok, and maybe take some sidetrips up North. Hopefully I'll have the opportunity to make it to Cambodia and Vietnam sometime as well, as I hear no trip to SE Asia is complete with a look at Angkor Wat.

There's always more to say, but I've reached my bed time and I spend too much time on this machine again. Goodnight!

Aaron

Tuesday, April 03, 2007

One Night in Ba...

Ok so I can't bring myself to actually finish the line, but we were really hoping and waiting to hear that cheezy song the whole time in Thailand. But not once! Despite this extreme disappointment, we still managed to have a good time somehow.
First, we all left work many hours early last monday (the 26th) and made our way to Narita airort and poured through the guidebook through the 6 hour flight, since we were basically flying with almost no set plans. 1. Bangkok 2. beach. that was about as far as we got maybe...
BUT secretly part of my motivation to make the push to travel so far on such notice was to see my long time friend Lara, who happened to be finishing up her little tour of SE Asia at the time. Other big factors include getting away from the never ending Japanese winter and work.
Here's Shane, me, and Lara on the streets of Khao San rd, a dirty piece of Bangkok set aside for late minute arrivals and dirty backpackers. A lot of Japanese hippies like to get dreads on this street.Here's Amber in front of one of the many ridiculously gaudy and golden buildings that make up part of the old imperial palace grounds. The entrance is free for Thai people and about 9 or 10 dollars for non Thai.Here's Shane looking good. To be honest the stuff there was pretty impressive.
Here's some golden Buddha heads that made up the snake feet of a larger golden being of some kind. ... Awesome.
I only like this picture because of the Thai guy (waiter i think) standing in the back. Thai people seem about a million times more laid back than the Japanese, which was apparent as early as our flight over, when people were just hanging around the aisles, watching others play cards and just generally chatting.
Anyway our most Bangkoky experiences really happened thanks to my friend from college Paradon, who happens to be living and working in the city at the moment. We met up with him after he finished work, and we set out for dinner. He guided us along the new Skytram, and then paid for us to hop on the back of some motorcycles who zipped us to our destination. The driving and especially motorcycle hopping in this city is best done in Buddhist style: closing your eyes and removing your mind from the buzz of cars and smell of fumes all around you. Very Bangkok. Then Paradon treated us to a dinner filled with lots of crazy looking foods, almost all of which were spicy, and some of which I found to spicy to comfortably eat. Very different from Japanese cooking, which prefers "subtle" flavors rather than blasting your senses like so many other Asian foods. After a touch of wandering afterwards we met up with Paradon again and made our way to what he assured me was "at least the second best" gay dance club in all Bangkok. No small boast in a large city that exposes it's sexuality more than most Asian cities.
I have no pictures of all this unfortunately, so you'll just have to take my word I suppose. I'm not used to being surrounded by hundreds of guys, all with perfectly sculpted torsos. But despite being insecure about my own hairy flabby stomach, I enjoyed myself and was even instructed on how to give a lapdance. Not sure I could really capture that spirit that really lets someone do something like that though. Oh well, I've got time to improve!

The next day we headed for the beaches, perhaps the primary purpose of our trip. But that'll have to wait till next time. My bed calls. Er, my stack of futons. oyasumi!
Aaron